Saturday, 9 April 2016

Fabulous art at the newly opened National Gallery Singapore

We recently visited the newly opened National Gallery Singapore, which features Southeast Asia Art.  The National Gallery Singapore occupies two national monuments - the former Supreme Court and City Hall, both landmarks of Singapore's colonial past that have been beautifully restored and transformed beginning 2011 into a beautiful, majestic museum.  


Some inside views of the National Gallery which has been painstakingly restored

The National Gallery Singapore is located in the heart of Singapore's Civic district, and across the Padang (large field) on which several important gatherings including the National Day parade are held.  Below are some great views of Singapore one can get from Level 6.




Figure: Great views of Singapore across the 'Padang' or grounds from the NGS
Top: View of the CBD - Central Business District
Bottom: The iconic Marina Bay Sands hotel the Esplanade Theaters, and the Singapore Flyer

As an arts institution, the NGS reflects Singapore’s unique cultural heritage and geographical location by featuring Singapore and Southeast Asian art exhibitions. Working with other museums around the world the NGS co-presents Southeast Asian art in a wider context, as evidenced in the special exhibition currently running titled "Reframing Modernism", which features iconic works by modern artists from Southeast side by side with European artists.


The collection of exhibitions at the NGS is vast enough to take several visits to cover.  We managed to catch only a few of the exhibitions and I am highlighting some of the paintings and the people behind them that caught my eye.   Most galleries cover the little red dot's Ii.e. Singapore's) art history from the 19th century providing insights into the history of the country, and the circumstances and events that the artists lived through.

Lotus in a Breeze, by Georgette Chen, 1970
Lotus in a Breeze is a classic painting by Georgette Chen who settled in Singapore since the 1950s and taught art here as well.  She chose the lotus, which is indicative of her Chinese heritage.  Chen studied and learned art in Paris, New York and Shanghai.


Kampong Kuchan, by Suri bin Mohyani, 1951

Kampong Kuchan shows a region in Singapore which historically was a fishing village or Kampong.  In 1951, urban redevelopment began encroaching on to this Kampong, and this is when this painting was made.


Self portrait, by Lee Man Fong, 1958
A rare Self portrait, this painting shows Lee in this art studio with statues and busts.  You can see that he has painted this looking into a mirror.  Lee moved to Singapore in 1916 from China and went ot study with a scholarship at The Hague.  He was later appointed official painter to Indonesia’s Presidential Palace.


Souri, by Liu Kang, 1953
Souri shows a Balinese dancer kneeling theatrically in front of a carving of a Hindu god.  The patterns, details and colors of her costume are the highlight of this painting.  Liu Kang was born in China, studied at the Shanghai Academy of Fine Art, and then lived in Paris before coming to Singapore.


Epiphany, by Richard Walker, 1942
Walker’s (1896 – 1989) allegorical painting, Epiphany, depicts the Nativity scene of Jesus. Walker pained this when he was a prisoner-of-war under Japanese occupation in the Changi POW camp in Singapore. The Virgin Mary and other biblical figures are portrayed as Asians with modern hairstyles, and the wise men are dressed in Chinese garb. 


Various Photographs, credits not noted
There were some interesting photographs of people of Indian origin featured.  Captured just a couple of them as shown above in Various Photographs.

Wu Guangzhong gallery

There was an entire gallery dedicated to the works of Wu Guangzhong (1919 - 2010).  Wu is considered to be one of the greatest contemporary Chinese painters, and is widely recognized as a founder of modern Chinese painting.  His works included several paintings reminiscent of of the impressionist painters (oil), and then was part of the New Ink movement (ink), and then moved to Abstraction (abstract art). The gallery is named after the artist who gifted many of his works to Singapore, and is his largest holding of his works in a public collection.  Some of Wu's works are below:


A Sunflower, by Wu Guangzhong, 1975
A Sunflower -- Wu was intrigued with sunflowers, especially by how "their seeds are packed tightly in an arrangement that is complex yet orderly, its methodical criss-crosses more intricate than a bee hive". This painting was Wu's tribute to Dutch painter Vincent Van Gogh who was well known for depicting sunflowers.


Pomegranates, by Wu Guangzhong, 1974

A riverside scene of Shaoxing, by Wu Guangzhong
Homage to Van Gogh, by Wu Guangzhong
A dream of Paris, by Wu Guangzhong
The Great Buddha of Le Mountain, by Wu Guangzhong, 1979
The Great Buddha of Le Mountain is a painting in ink of the Leshan Giant Buddha, which is carved out of a cliff in Sichuan province in China.  Wu scoped the area out and drew a pretty amazing perspective of the cliff carving as seen from near its feet.

In 1947, Wu traveled to Paris to study at the Ecole Nationale SupĂ©rieure des Beaux Arts on the government scholarship. He visited all of the major museums within the first few days of his arrival having been a great fan of French and European art. Wu loved van Gogh the most because of van Gogh’s passion for art and the internal torment he endured.  

Wu returned to China in the summer of 1950 and taught there in a job he was assigned to by the new People’s Republic of China government.  In 1966, after the Cultural Revolution, the Red Guards from the very art school he had been teaching at raided his house and confiscated his possessions and forbade him to paint or write! He was heavily criticized for his work and condemned to 're-education' by being sent away to the countryside to toil in fields and force to study books by Chairman Mao. 

Beginning in 1972, when he found more leisure time he began to paint again and was allowed to go back home in 1973.

We wrapped up with the gallery housed in the former Supreme Court that housed more art from greater Southeast Asia.  Some of the interesting ones I saw are below.

Espana y Filipinas by Juan Luna, 1884
Espana y Filipinas is an allegorical painting describing the relationship between Spain and the Philippines.  It shows Spain guiding Philippines to a radiant dawn with the staircase being climbed indicating progress.

There were several paintings by Raden Saleh (1811- 1880) from Indonesia.  Raden is considered to be the first 'modern' artist from Indonesia (then the Dutch East Indies), and his paintings corresponded with nineteenth-century romanticism which was popular in Europe at the time.  He did learn art in the Netherlands and live in Europe for 20 years.

Merapi eruption, by Raden Saleh, 1866

Forest fire by Raden Saleh, 1849
The colossal Forest fire is impressively sized at 3m x 4m. The plight of animals at the edge of a cliff as a fire burns in the background is simply awesome.

In closing, the National Gallery houses some incredible art from the region.  Admission is free for citizens and PRs and is $15/$20 for concession/adult tickets.  This gallery is a treasure trove and also has an entire children's section called the Keppel Centre for Art Education.  Keppel offers an environment that is perfect for the curious child.  There is an Art Corridor, a children's museum, a Project Gallery for hands on activities and a brilliant decorated Art Playscape.  An example of art at the Keppel Center is show below.

The Project Gallery is perfect for a break for the kids from the Gallery and to indulge in art!






Monday, 7 March 2016

Mr. Nice Guy, my dad

(** based on my recollections, so some inaccuracies in dates, places and names may exist!)

Born on March 8, 1934, in the princely state of Hyderabad, and given his birth name by a Hindu spiritual leader, he was throughout his life - in most people's opinion and in just a couple of words simply - a ‘nice guy’.

The youngest in a family of five, he lost his mother as a child.  He went to school and grew up in Hyderabad in the company of academics, poets such as Harindranath Chattopadhyay and went to school with prolific film director, Shyam Benegal.  These associations likely inculcated in him a flair for poetry (funny ones in particular), on-demand jokes and riddles, and stage performances - especially magic shows..

He studied at an Urdu-medium school and developed his passion for magic from the visiting street magicians passing by his family home.  Learning from them and spending his pocket money to buy some magic items, he actively organized neighborhood shows during festivals and events.  His father was a renowned professor of mathematics at the Nizam’s college in Hyderabad, and this inspired him to pursue a Master’s degree in Physics after which he taught briefly at the Regional Engineering College in Warangal.  Involvement in education would become a lifelong passion for him and he referred to himself as 'professor'.

In 1956 with the reorganization of the Indian states along linguistic lines, the state of Hyderabad was split into Andhra Pradesh, Maharashtra, Gujarat and Karnataka.  Around this time his eldest brother moved to Maharashtra and soon after he followed.  With independent India aspiring to become self-reliant in nuclear science and technology and the creation of the Atomic Energy Establishment in Trombay led by Dr. Homi Bhabha, he joined this establishment as part of the first batch of scientist trainees.  Getting married around the same time, he moved to ‘Bombay’.

In 1966, he was to be nominated for a key scientific exchange mission to Vienna on Dr. Bhabha’s own recommendation. This opportunity never materialized with Dr. Bhabha’s tragic airline accident in Europe that also left the nuclear establishment without a leader.  In 1969, he spent a year away from his family as a researcher at the Brookhaven National Laboratory in Long Island, New York, but subsequent opportunities were cut short when the US halted research ties with India after the Pokhran nuclear test in 1971.  He continued his research at BARC with one of the research reactors achieving criticality and inspiring him to pursue and complete his Ph.D. thesis quite late in his career.

Residing in Anushakti Nagar, the serene residential quarters of BARC, complete with lush greenery, hills and ponds, which had several young scientists and their families, he took the lead to facilitate picnics, treks, sports meets, annual day celebrations and more.  He remained a key force in ensuring that scientists’ children got quality education and was an active volunteer in the management of the AECS schools which saw its golden years with a highly motivated group of teachers, educators and parents focused on all-round development of children.  He led the preparation of students for the government sponsored National Talent Search scholarships that provided funding for the higher education of several BARC students.

At a personal level, he played tennis regularly, and could be seen on to the tennis courts at the brink of dawn.  He rarely missed his game day, and even in monsoons he could be seen with his band of tennis-maniacs, mopping the courts to catch a quick game before it poured again! The one day he stayed away from the courts was in 1984, when Mrs. Gandhi was assassinated and it was his way of mourning the event.

He helped innumerable people on a variety of issues.  He campaigned hard to get employment for the son of a lower-job-grade BARC employee after that employee’s death, lobbied for a bhelpuri seller to get a license to sell his products in the colony and to begin a small operation which has now grown to a much larger establishment, and personally attested numerous job and immigration applications including one for a cook who was visiting the US for employment and thereafter moved his entire family over to the US.  Every Holi, he would be at the hasya kavi sammelan, a festival of funny poems.  No wedding, birthday or even a scientific convention was complete without his magic show performance featuring playing cards that diminished in size and eventually vanished, the currency machine that converted blank paper into money, the cut rope that would be magically restored, and his popular and challenging memory feat to recall twenty words in the exact order after being read out to him twice.  Trips he and the family took for weddings and other ceremonies invariably had one suitcase full of magic trick equipment.

Post-retirement life outside of the BARC residential quarters seemed to affect him negatively.  He missed his tennis and his friends, his involvement in education activities, which he could not easily pursue.  He visited his children in the US frequently and enjoyed traveling and browsing through magic and tennis books and videos from the public libraries. He suffered through trying times due to MSA (multiple system atrophy), which led to the degeneration of his cognitive skills and physical abilities over a period of time.  He did not like being dependent on others, especially my mother who took great care of him, but he always continued his routine of helping with household chores such as the laundry, repairing electronic items, and getting the groceries.  He enjoyed viewing tennis matches on television and always rooted for no player in particular, but for the match to go to five sets so that everyone got to view a longer and more interesting duel!

When I speak to people about my dad, the common theme that comes out is how he helped them in some manner or the other and what a 'nice guy' he was throughout his eventful life.

(He left us in 2007 after a prolonged neurological illness.)

Tuesday, 30 December 2014

What's happening to Indian book stores?

It's happening.  All around India.  Well, surely in  the couple cities I have visited recently.  Probably  a result of the digitization of books, media and entertainment.  

The book stores are waning!  Or at least, the collection of books in the book stores is.

When we visit India, we always make several visits to book stores.  Landmark, Crossword, the book stores in the malls.  The one thing that surprised me this time was that the book sections in these stores had shrunk and had been replaced by larger sections selling gifts, stationery, even suitcases and IT accessories like cables, and more.  The collection in the books section seemed to be pretty much limited to best sellers and the most popular authors and series only.

This is most likely a result of Flipkart, Amazon.in and other online retailers.  Even I find myself ordering books online when I visit India since they get delivered into the comfort of our house, so a (sometimes tedious) trip to the book store is no longer needed.  The selection online is typically more comprehensive, prices are invariably discounted and delivery is quite fast and usually free for orders over Rs. 500.  The phenomenon we have been seeing in the US resulting the demise of Borders seems to be on the horizon in India now.  Even under these circumstances, it was great to see and visit a few specialty book stores like Higgin Bothams in Chennai and Kitab Khana in Mumbai.  These stores have an excellent selection of books, with knowledgeable staff, which is somewhat of a rarity these days.

In whatever form people read, whether paper books or electronic readers, I hope that Indians continue to read more since literacy, free and critical thinking, and education is a key asset for any country especially a developing country like India. And more specifically, I hope that children read more since they are today easily and often distracted by electronic gadgets that are useful but do not quite replace reading at their stage in life.

Keep reading...

Image: Kitab Khana, Fort, Mumbai. Pic by Venkat

Saturday, 5 October 2013

Beautiful Bali - diary from our recent visit

Why Bali?

We were planning our first vacation since our move to Singapore earlier this year. The choice was easy. Bali. Indonesia.  Why?  People describe Bali as a land of contrasts and diverse offerings.  Beaches, volcanic mountains, rice and coffee plantations, rich art, culture, history, and more. Bali is an island located between the Indonesian islands of Java and Lombok.  Indonesia is known to be an archipelago of 16,000 islands of which Bali is probably the most popular one in terms of people visiting it.  And it was just a 2.5 hour flight from Singapore. We were locked into a destination.



Planning our travel

Flights were easy to plan for.  Air Asia, the highly rated low cost airline, had the best prices from Singapore  and convenient flight schedules.  Garuda was moderately priced, Singapore Airlines was outright expensive.  I avoided Lion Air owing to its recent safety incident, which in fact occurred in Bali.

Deciding where to stay was a greater challenge.  Let me give an overview of Bali's popular areas.  Kuta, in the South, is a more crowded and heavily touristy location.  It has nice beaches which are crowded, and several restaurants and bars.  If you don't want crowds avoid staying here but visit it if you'd like.  Nusa Dua further to the south is better, with some real large hotels and resorts.  Nusa Dua has good while sand beaches and water activities but is somewhat set aloof from everything else. If you are planning more of a beach and resort vacation, Nusa Dua is good.  Ubud, which is farther north is set amidst the rice fields and hills in the artistic region, but with no beaches nearby.  Ubud is growing as a sought after location for those who don't mind being farther away from the beaches.  And then there is Seminyak which is more centrally located.  It is close to black sandy beaches (not as great as those in the South) and is home to may fine restaurants and dining options, surely less crowded than Kuta.  We stayed in Kerobokan, which is just north of Seminyak.

Staying in Bali

The choice of a hotel was next.  There are hundreds and hundreds of options.  My most important sources of information were Google Maps for location and TripAdvisor for reviews.  TripAdvisor is great and provides a lot of excellent customer feedback and information not only about the hotel but nearby places, restaurants and more.  Decisions to make are whether you want a hotel or a villa, small or big brand, on or off the beach, etc.  We booked a 2-bedroom villa at a one-off, local villa called the Awan Villas in Kerobokan.  Just over a year old, this excellently landscaped property has nine villas and with a total staff strength of 25, offered excellent service throughout our stay.  All villas have two bedrooms, a private pool, and an outdoor living and dining room with kitchenette.  Each bedroom had an attached bathroom though they are part indoors, part outdoors, which is quite common in Balinese villas and a good experience.  In smaller properties such as this, airport transfers and breakfast are typically included in the  rate. 

View of our rooms and pool inside our villa at the Awan Villas

Traveling within Bali

For longer trips where you plan to visit multiple places, rent a car (with a driver).  It typically runs about USD 60 for a full day (9 hours of service).  Most local hotel operators provide competitive car rentals of their own (or through their partners) and maybe a more reliable option than a third-party travel agency.  For one off trips in the key tourist areas, local taxis are a plenty.  They are modestly priced, abundantly available and generally very safe, metered and reliable.  Many tourists rent scooters which are also modestly priced.  It is a bit of challenge to drive on the crowded and narrow roads and since we traveled with children, we did not venture into renting scooters, though it seemed like fun.  Walking around in the key areas is challenging and sometimes dangerous since the roads have a lot of traffic and the sidewalks are non-existent in many areas.  

Places to visit

I am sharing experiences from what we did.  Surely there are many other places to visit and things to do beyond what I share below.

1) Beaches and water activities

Beaches in the south, especially Nusa Dua and Jimbaran Bay are best.  White, soft, sandy beaches.  Gentle enough to take a dip compared to the black, sandy and rougher beaches farther up north and west.  We spent the evening at the beach on Jimbaran bay and watched the sun set, which was beautiful.
Sunset at Jimbaran Bay

We also spent a few hours at a water activities center in Nusa Dua.  Activities available are water scooters, para sailing, high speed banana boat rides, glass bottom boat rides, visit to a marine life island, and more.  We ventured on a banana boat ride, which was a high speed boat pulling a raft shaped liked a banana, where you hang on tight!  We also took the glass bottom boat ride in which you get to view some fish and coral below the boat, and then headed to 'turtle' island which houses several giant turtles, and other rare animals and birds.  Good fun with the kids.  Be prepared to get wet with these activities.
Banana boat ride at Nusa Dua


2) Art, art, everywhere

Bali is rich in art.  Paintings, batik printing, silver and gold jewelry, wood working, stone work, and much more.  It is breathtaking to see giant Ganeshas, Buddhas, and more carved from stone stacked along the roadside for sale.  We visited art galleries with huge collections of paintings and saw painters in action.  The beauty of the art work is impossible (for me) to describe in words and is something that needs to be take in, live.  I have not seen the proliferation of art across a land, as much as I saw in Bali.  It is indeed beautiful, and very tempting to get as much of it as one can back with you.
Wood carving showing Rama and Sita made using 'crocodile' wood
Stone statues can be seen for sale all over Bali

3) Temples

Most Balinese are Hindu.  This influence came from India due to trade and exchanges beginning in the 5th century CE.  It is very interesting to see a lot of words in Bahasa Indonesia that have originated from Sanskrit, and to see the stories of Ramayana and Mahabharatha as popular in Bali as they are in India.  Temples are ubiquitous architecture in Bali.  The temples or pura in Bali are unique and different from those in India in that the Balinese temples are largely outdoor.  These puras offer an open air place of worship with enclosed walls with intricately decorated walls between the outer, mid and inner / most sacred zones or compounds.  With the compound walls are several shrines, meru (towers) and bale (pavilions), arranged with unique, Balinese Hindu sacred hierarchies.  The pagoda-like tiered roofs are the distinctive feature of Balinese temples.  It was interesting to note that almost every homes has a temple compound in their backyard, and the size varies with the wealth of the homeowner.  Effectively, you see lots and lots of small and mid-size puras, as you travel around Bali with religious prayers being carried out many times a day.  To the Balinese, temples and their various structures are not worshipped. Temples are meant to be pleasant resting place for the gods on their stay on the island.Maybe this explains why visitors are allowed to enter the temple with their footwear (unlike in India) while one has to wear a sarong (usually provided) in most temples.

We visited three temples during our trip.  The first was the Tirta Empul temple located in central Bali.  This temple was built during the 10th century CE and has a large water spring that is believed to provide water that people take a dip into for purification.  The second was the Uluwatu temple located south of Kuta. This temple is one of the nine key temples in Bali that is meant to protect Bali from evil spirits and faces the sea on a 200 foot high vertical cliff.  The inner section of temple is not open to the public but it is said to have three lingas, one each of Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu.  The views of the sea and the cliffs are simply breathtaking.  The last one was Goa Gajah, which is the Elephant Cave located near Ubud.  The facade of the cave has a relief of several menacing creatures and demons carved into the rock.  Inside the cave were the three lingas and a rock statue of Ganesha.


Tirta Empul temple and people taking a dip for purification

Uluwatu temple seen atop the cliff

4) Culture

We had heard a lot about the dances native to Bali.  Two types that we were able to see are the Barong and Kecak dance.

The Barong dance is most popular in Bali and is a story telling dance narrating the ongoing fight between the mythological good Barong and evil Rangda.  This is classic way in which Balinese mythology is enacted and is set of various stories.  With many characters, humor and captivating dance sequences with artistes wearing bright and elaborate costumes, this is a very captivating performance.  The music is provided by a group of nearly twenty musicians, playing instruments such as xylophone, drums, flute, bronzed pots, and more, and is enthralling.

The Kecak dance is another unique style where the dance is performed around a large lamp (hence the name fire dance).  A group of nearly fifty male capella singers sitting in concentric circles called the gamelan suara provide the music for the dance while a portion of the Ramayana is enacted out by the artistes in dance drama format.  The costumes are bright, colorful and the entire performance is very engaging.  At the end, a person enters and under a trance from the music, and walks on fire that is set up in the middle of the performance circle.
The Barong represents good, and the monkey is its friend in the story
The Kecak dance telling stories from the Ramayana
The music ensemble completes the Barong dance magic

5) Food

My review of food and dining in Bali is not comprehensive given our vegetarian limitation.  We were able to get a fair amount of vegetarian food in the touristy areas - Kuta and Seminyak - and there was a diverse variety of cuisines available too, including Mexican, Greek, Italian and others.  Food isn't very expensive, and it is good to enjoy the local coconut water, and fruits such as jack fruit, snake skin fruit (salak), mangosteen and others.  The local delicacies of nasi goreng (fried rice) and mie goreng (frid noodles) are also usually available in vegetarian options although with eggs. Do exercise caution when eating out and avoid the unpopular Bali Belly!  Another interesting thing we found was a small dining place called Lakshmi vegetarian restaurant located remotely, that served purely veg food.  They had various Indonesian dishes that looked like meat but were made out of tofu, and the owner was a Sathya Sai baba devotee.  It was like eating at a dhaba, but we got some vegetarian food alright.

Nasi Goreng - Indonesian fried rice, a staple

Snake skin fruit or Salak

6) Fields and plantations

Bali has a lot of green.  Although an island Bali is very self sufficient in producing its own food.  There is a lot of farming once you get out of Kuta and Seminyak.  Rice fields are a plenty and Balinese farmers have done well to grow rice on hill sides using terrace farming.  We also saw several coffee plantations.  Bali is famous for its rich coffee and the family-run plantation we visited made some unique flavoured combination coffees including vanilla coffee, ginseng coffee and such, and several herbal teas.  On this plantation they grew their own ginseng, cocoa, vanilla, jack fruit and more.  One interesting thing we learnt while at this plantation was 'luawak coffee'. Luwaks (civets) are mongoose like creatures which eat coffee berries.  The berries they have eaten and excreted(!) are collected by coffee growers since it apparently produces high quality brewed coffee.  These sell for several hundred USD per kilo but I did not venture to try any.  Also, I understand there is controversy over the fact that the luwaks are held in cages for this process to support the lucrative trade rather than the free and wild nature in which luwak coffee originated.  So much for the luwaks.  As you travel around Bali, you do see a lot of beautiful flowering plants including bougainvilleas and frangipani which are abundant all around Bali.
Terraced rice fields near Ubud
Various coffees and teas for tasting at a plantation 
Frangipanis are present everywhere in Bali

There is a lot more than the above to discover in Bali.  It is a very diverse region and an excellent family destination no matter what your interests are.  

Saturday, 29 June 2013

The Singapore Haze

In the summer months, typically between June and August,  Singapore is affected by instances of haze.  Haze that's produced by the burning of old crop fields in Indonesia.  It is a known occurrence, there's not much that can be done about it and life goes on.

Except that this year the haze came on real hard. Beginning mid June and for about 10 days, there were reportedly 200 hot spots burning across Indonesia.  Palm oil and other crop farms were set ablaze to clear the land for the next season by reckless farmers.  Much easier to set the expansive farms on fire than cut, uproot and dispose.  The extensive burning, combined with winds blowing into the area, made the haze in Singapore reach an all time high of 400+ PSI (Pollution Standards Index).


People at higher risk were asked to stay indoors in the air-conditioning if possible.  Public and outdoor workers were asked to use a face mask, as needed.  The smell of wood burning hung in the air.  Eyes itched.  People sneezed.  Children were luckily on summer holidays and so schools were out.  But the majority of people continued on as usual.  Public transport, malls, restaurants remained open.  Attendance at work was unchanged.  The government officials said they were taking steps to take action working with the governing bodies in Indonesia.  Singapore offered its assistance to fight the fires and to seed clouds to induce rain fall.  But to its residents, the key message was "look out for each other".  StarHub, a major cable TV and broadband provider provide all cable channels free over the weekend to keep people entertained as they stayed home.  I am sure there are many other instance of people, companies, organizations - just helping out.

As a city-state-country, Singapore is very vulnerable to events in neighboring countries which it has little control over.  But the spirit with which the people came together, and the actions the government took to manage the situation was incredible.

So, it was just a haze.  Not a major flood or other significant catastrophe.  I agree.  But how you react to smaller situations is a fairly good indicator of how you would react to a major one.

-Venkat

Friday, 28 June 2013

How Singapore controls automobile traffic

Singapore is a small island city-state-country.  With an area of 700 square km (275 square miles) of which roads make up nearly 10%, coupled with a high population density, it is very easy for Singapore to have become clogged with traffic jams on roads like many other metropolitan cities.  The government on one had developed one of the best in the world mass transit systems with buses and light rail, and on the other hand has done very interesting things to limit private car ownership.  The latter is what I discuss here.

Owning a cars is expensive: To buy a car in Singapore you pay significant duties on the price of the car (~150%) and also need to buy a Certificate of Entitlement (COE) that entitles you to own your car for a period of 10 years.  At last bidding, the COE was priced at around S$70,000 (having hit S$95,000 earlier in the year). This makes the price of a small car in the range of S$125,000, which puts it out of reach for many.

Smart congestion pricing: Additionally, Singapore has an elaborate traffic congestion pricing scheme called Electronic Road Pricing (ERP).  ERP is collected at peak times and at key locations entering and exiting congested areas and is automatically charged to your card/account as you enter and exit these areas.  The ERP system also extends to paying for parking so there are no toll booth personnel and hunting for cash / change, making throughput much faster.  Some people refer to ERP as 'Everyday Rob People' since it is expensive, but the proof that the system works is that you rarely hit major traffic jams in the city.

Taxis: With nearly 30,000 taxis, taxis form a reliable source of transport.  Not very expensive, and comparable to, or cheaper than, owning a car, taxis are clean, drivers are generally very courteous, and the system for hailing them or booking them in advance is very well laid out.  Of course, in peak hours getting a taxi can be very difficult and you do frequently run into taxi drivers who 'select' their fares (generally people going where they are headed towards!).  You also encounter taxi drivers changing shifts at peak hours, which can be frustrating since you need the driver to be living near where you wish to go to be able to hail a ride